Whether you take your car to a quick oil change franchise or your engine is half a quart low and you want to add motor oil yourself, you will be faced with a choice between synthetic and regular oil. Both synthetic and conventional oil are well suited to lubricating and protecting modern engines. To properly evaluate synthetic oil vs regular oil, you must consider your unique circumstances. Synthetic oil vs regular oil often comes down to factors such as the mileage on your vehicle, what type of oil your owner’s manual recommends if any, your circumstances, and possibly your budget.

Synthetic Oil vs Regular - What’s the difference?

All motor oils are comprised of a base stock and an additive package. The base can be derived from petroleum or manufactured using a chemical formula created specifically for the purpose of being used as an engine lubricant. When we refer to conventional or regular oil, we are describing oil with a base stock that is refined from the crude oil that gets extracted from the ground. Synthetic motor oils use a man-made base stock that is specially designed for use as an engine lubricant. Synthetics can be derived from crude oil components rather than crude, but they can also be produced using other materials. Synthetic blends or semi-synthetic oils use refined petroleum and up to 30% synthetic oil. Blends cost less than full synthetics and offer some of the same benefits.

Engine oil additives are used to enhance the oil and improve its performance. Additives which improve oil flow or prevent sludge buildup are common. Additives and formulations vary from brand to brand, but all motor oil, whether synthetic or regular, contains additives.

From a practical standpoint, the biggest difference and the one you'll notice first is price. Synthetic oil costs significantly more per quart versus regular oil. Synthetics can cost twice as much as mineral oils and add an extra $10 or $25 per oil change. Which leads us to the next question.

Is Synthetic Oil Worth It?

If you are wondering whether synthetic oil is worth paying twice the price of petroleum based motor oil, the answer is it depends. There is no single type or brand of motor oil that is right for every car or car owner. Synthetic oils do perform better overall and are more effective in tough driving conditions such as extremely cold or hot temperatures. They flow better when starting a cold engine, they maintain their viscosity at high engine temperatures, their viscosity holds up very well over time, and they provide excellent lubrication to protect against engine wear which can extend the life of your vehicle.

Under certain circumstances, paying extra for synthetic oil, even though there are performance benefits to doing so, would make very little sense. If you drive infrequently or lease a car and don't intend to put many miles on it, synthetic oil might not be for you as engine wear and achieving maximum engine performance are not likely to be concerns of yours. It’s a bit like putting high octane gas in a rental car. The extra expense is not worth the benefit, if you even notice the benefits at all. In contrast, if you are someone who drives 50,000 miles a year and will surpass 100,000 in just over 2 years, the extra cost might be well worth it as you obviously depend on your car a great deal.

If you drive an older car, synthetic oil may not be right for you. If your car is older and you are considering a synthetic oil because you think it might miraculously make your car run like new, you will probably be disappointed.

Switching to synthetic oil in older cars after using conventional oil for years can also lead to other problems. You may see a noticeable increase in your oil consumption or you may start seeing leaks. Modern synthetic oils don't actually cause these problems, but switching to synthetic oil in an older car may alert you to them. You may have seals and gaskets that are cracked but coated with deposits from extended petroleum oil usage. A synthetic with better flow and better cleaning properties might eliminate the excess sludge and deposits which could expose leak locations.

If your car is brand new and did not come off the lot filled with a synthetic motor oil, you will want to wait a few thousand miles before switching to synthetics. This will allow your engine to undergo a sufficient break in period. You'll also be aware of any engine defects or other problems before you spend extra to make the switch.

The bottom line, though, is that it’s your car and your hard earned money. Cars are not cheap. The cost of ownership, which includes maintenance and repairs, is significant for most people. You have to decide for yourself if spending more for a few extra percentage points worth of protection is relatively cheap insurance against much costlier potential problems or an unnecessary expense.

Synthetic Oil vs Regular Oil - Price Considerations

So how much does synthetic oil cost? Or more specifically how much extra does synthetic oil wind up costing you? Suppose you wind up spending an extra $75 per year on oil changes as a result of using synthetic oil vs regular oil. You drive 15,000 miles per year and get your oil changed every 5,000 miles. That’s an extra $225 per year or $0.015 per mile. If you get your oil changed every 3,000 miles, the extra cost works out to $375 per year or $0.025 per mile. Work out your cost based on your car manufacturer’s recommended oil change interval, how much you drive, and how much a synthetic oil change costs in your area. Your numbers may be lower or higher, but it’s up to you whether the added expense is a major factor in your decision or not.

Synthetic Oil Change Interval

If you decide to go with the most expensive or best synthetic oil that they offer at your local car care center or quick oil change location, can you drastically increase your time between oil changes? In a word, no.

ynthetic oils and synthetic blends are not designed for the purpose of extending your oil change interval. They are formulated to be more effective lubricants and improve engine performance. Most synthetic oil makers are very clear on this point. As an example, check out what Valvoline has to say about their products extending oil change intervals in their FAQ here.

Also, car manufacturers do not consider synthetic and regular oil separately when making their oil change recommendations. Check your owner’s manual. You will not see both a recommended synthetic oil change interval and a conventional oil change interval. There is only one suggested oil change interval, typically between 3,000 and 5,000 miles. Some car manufacturers do have less frequent oil change guidelines. A car maker like BMW that recommends using a fully synthetic oil might suggest changing your oil at 7,500 or 15,000 miles. Whatever the number is, it’s best to stay within your car maker’s recommendation.

Use Quality Motor Oil

No matter how you ultimately choose to answer the synthetic oil vs regular oil question for yourself, strongly consider using premium quality motor oil and oil filters. Well-known brands that are established are backed by companies that have been in business and have built up their reputations over the course of many years. They typically offer products that are more consistent and superior in quality. You could choose to go with a no name or store brand motor oil, provided it carries the proper Viscosity Index and American Petroleum Institute (API) service rating. Whatever money you save, however, is not likely to be significant over the life of your car.

Synthetic Oil vs Regular Oil

The car engine of today features better design, smarter engineering, improved performance, and more durability than engines produced in the past. Likewise, the motor oils of today, both synthetics and conventional oil, are significantly better products and offer greater protection against engine wear than their predecessors. That does not mean, however, that you can safely ignore the oil change recommendations in your owner’s manual because you use synthetic engine oil. Nor does it mean that you should only buy the cheapest motor oil you can find.

Unless your car manufacturer specifically recommends using synthetic oil, when you take your car in for an oil change or head over to the auto parts store to pick up a quart for topping off your engine, you will have a choice to make. To compare synthetic oil vs regular oil and decide which one is right for you, consider your circumstances and your needs. Do you drive in extreme weather conditions? How important is maximum performance to you? How many miles do you have on your car? Do the math if price is a concern. Whichever side you fall on in the synthetic oil vs regular oil debate, it should be based on your unique individual circumstances.

Though power window problems can occur at any time, they have a way of happening at the most inconvenient moments. Your window won't go down on a sizzling hot day or you can't get it to go up when it starts pouring rain outside. Your window gets stuck halfway or won't budge at the drive thru, at a car wash, or at a toll booth. One window might fail or all of your windows may stop working. Whatever the case may be, it will usually be frustrating, embarrassing or both. The good news is you may be able to fix it yourself. And I don't mean by taping a plastic bag in place or avoiding fast food and toll roads.

A simple power window repair involves replacing a fuse or buying and installing a new switch. These are both inexpensive repairs you can do relatively quickly and easily by yourself. More elaborate repairs like fixing underlying electrical problems or replacing the motor that operates your power windows should be left to a professional mechanic. Because you will know how to replace a switch or change a fuse, however, you have the freedom to try the cheaper options first before you take your car in for service and have to pay for the cost of labor.

Fix Power Windows Yourself - How to Fix a Power Window

If the problem is limited to just one of your power windows, it could be the result of a faulty switch. The power window switch on the driver's side tends to go first as it almost always gets more use than the others. It may simply be worn out from the wear and tear of frequent use. Spilling a drink in the vicinity of the switch or leaving your window down on a rainy day can allow moisture to get in and kill your switch as well.

To get a replacement switch, make sure you know your model year, make, and model. Call around to nearby auto parts stores and your local dealership to get the best price on a replacement. If you do not need to do the power window repair immediately, you can get a pretty good deal on an aftermarket power window switch online as well. The cost of replacement power window switches runs from around $35 up to about $70 at Amazon.com depending on your vehicle.

Once you have a new switch in hand, all you need is a small flathead screwdriver or something thin and sturdy like a file to pry up the old switch control. You might see two small metal tabs on each end you can press then just lift the old switch out of the bezel. Disconnect the switch from the electrical connectors.

Once the switch is out and detached from the connectors, installing the new switch is straightforward. Simply insert the new power window switch and plug in the connectors. Try the new switch. If the new switch does not work, you may need a new motor or you could be looking at an electrical problem.

Power Window Fuse Replacement

Replacing a blown fuse is the easiest and cheapest of the potential power window problems you are likely to face. If all of your windows are not working, meaning nothing happens when any of the driver side or passenger side switches are pressed, you may be able to get your power windows working again by replacing a blown fuse. It is a lot cheaper and easier to replace a fuse than it is to replace a motor or have work done on a faulty electrical system so if your power windows are not working check the fuses before you take your car in for service.

Find and Remove the Power Window Fuse

Fuses are often located in the front of the car either on the driver side or passenger side behind a small plastic panel or door. Your fuse panel may also be located under the hood. Some vehicles have more than one fuse panel as well. Your best bet is to consult your owner's manual for the location of both the fuse panel and the location of the fuse that controls your power windows. You should be able to open the fuse panel without tools by prying it open with your fingers. There may be a fuse map affixed to the panel that will tell which fuse controls which item. If not, refer to your manual.

Fuses may be glass cylinders or flat with two blades depending on the year and make of your car. Once you have located the fuse which controls your power windows, pull it out and examine it. You should be able to pull it out with your fingers or you can use a fuse puller or a pair of needle nose pliers. If the fuse is discolored or burnt looking, the fuse is blown and needs replacing.

If you do not have spare fuses, you can buy a replacement of the same amperage at an auto parts store. It is a good idea to buy additional fuses of differing amperages to have in case you ever need them. At Amazon.com, you can get a large assortment of automotive blade fuses for around $10 which should cover your needs for quite some time.

Once you have removed the blown fuse, insert the new one. Turn your engine on and try a window. If the window does not operate, then the problem could be the motor.

Power Window Motor

Replacing a power window motor can be a little bit tricky and something most car owners would probably not want to do on their own. It can be difficult to track down the part as buying a new motor is not as simple as buying a replacement fuse kit. The repair also involves removing the door panel which can be a bit of a pain with some cars. If the switch is in working order and replacing the fuse does not resolve the issue, at that point taking the car to a service center or dealership for a new power window motor is the next course of action.

Power Window Repair Cost

Power window repair cost is highly variable. If you just need to replace a fuse and you do it yourself, the repair should cost you less than $10, even if you buy some extra fuses just to have on hand. Replacing a switch is a bit more involved, but very much doable. You may spend around $50 for a replacement switch.

If you need a new power window motor for one or more windows and you insist on doing the repair yourself, you can get a replacement power window motor for around $50 to $75. If you need a regulator kit which includes a new motor you can expect to spend about $100 for one. Replacing a power window motor with or without the regulator is not the most difficult auto repair job, but it may be outside your comfort zone. Door panels can be a huge pain to remove, you will not have much space to work in, and you have to be careful not to damage the window itself.

If you take your car to a service center or dealership, you can expect your power window repair cost to be higher. You will have to pay for labor in addition to any necessary replacement parts. A rough power window repair cost estimate would be $250 including parts and labor. Depending on the make, model, and age of your car, the total cost could be lower or higher.

Power Window Repair

Power window problems can be annoying and make driving uncomfortable. A power window repair can be something simple and inexpensive you can do yourself or more complex and costly requiring the services of a mechanic. Before you opt to take your car in for service, checking the fuse and replacing a faulty switch yourself rather than having a technician troubleshoot and do the work can result in significant savings.

If you are faced with a dead car battery, you might be able to jump start the car. This is usually the case if you accidentally left your lights or another accessory such as your car stereo on overnight. Jumping a car battery is not overly difficult, but it is not always possible or advisable.

Make sure you check your owner’s manual before attempting a jump start. Most vehicles can be jump started, but if your car is equipped with an electronic ignition system or other fragile electronic components, your owner’s manual may specifically warn you not to use jumper cables . If your manual advises against jump starting, you will have no choice but to buy a new car battery.

You also want to inspect the battery itself before attempting a jump start. If there are bulging areas or cracks in the case, you should replace the battery instead as the risk of an explosion is too great to try jump starting. If you have a battery with an eye or window and you see yellow, your battery will not accept a charge and needs to be replaced.

Safety First When Jumping a Car Battery

Car batteries are not like the AA batteries you put in your TV remote. Car batteries store electricity, are filled with sulfuric acid, and can explode. They require much more care when handling or working with them.

Metal jewelry like rings or bracelets can cause a short circuit or create a spark so remove all your jewelry before you go near the engine. If you have long hair, put it up. Do not wear loose clothing around an engine that is running.

Eye protection is extremely important when working with a car battery. Sunglasses or eyeglasses are not sufficient. A pair of safety goggles offering protection from the front and on the sides are a must. If the battery explodes, sulfuric acid will be released and fragments will be sent flying. You can be blinded or seriously injured without eye protection if the worst were to happen.

How to Jump Start a Car Battery

Jump starting a car battery requires both a set of jumper cables and another vehicle. Driving around without a road emergency kit which includes a set of jumper cables is not a good idea. Especially if you live in a cold climate or drive an older car. If you don’t have jumper cables, it makes it a good bit more difficult to get help. You need another person willing to help you out who can also provide jumper cables.

Once you have a set of jumper cables and a healthy car to help you, position both vehicles so that the batteries are as close together as possible but make sure that the vehicles are not touching. Put both vehicles in Park or Neutral for manual transmissions and shut off both engines. Apply both parking brakes and pop both hoods open.

Now you’re ready to connect the jumper cables. Positive is red and negative is black. Attach one of the positive clips to the positive terminal on the car with the dead battery. The positive terminal is identified by a plus sign (+) or it may say POS on it. The positive terminal may also be clearly bigger than the negative terminal. Attach the other positive clip to the positive terminal of the good car’s battery.

Attach one of the black clips to the negative terminal of the good car. Attach the other black clip to an unpainted metal surface on the car with the dead battery away from the battery in order to ground it. Do not connect that last cable to the free battery terminal. Doing so could cause a spark, which could in turn cause your battery to explode.

Try starting the car with the dead battery. If it fails to start, start the good car and let the engine run for five minutes or so then try to start the car with the dead battery again. If it still will not start, you may be out of luck and in need of a tow truck, unfortunately.

If you are able to get the low battery car started, do not turn it off. You will want to drive around or leave the car running for at least twenty minutes to half an hour. Be aware that it can take significantly longer, like a few hours, to get the low battery back up to a full charge. This is especially the case during the winter when headlights, the heater, the defogger, and heated seats may be in use making it harder for the charging system to power everything and recharge the low battery at the same time. If you have a battery charger available, you can remove the battery from the vehicle and ensure that the battery gets fully charged.

Disconnecting the Jumper Cables

In an ideal world, you would be able to shut off both cars and remove the jumper cables. Because you are recharging a low battery that might not have enough power to start your car if you shut it off, that’s not very realistic. So be extra cautious when removing the jumper cables as you will be working around a running engine.

Carefully remove the jumper cables in the reverse order in which you put them on. Remove the negative (black) cable from the unpainted metal surface of the low battery car first. Then remove the black cable from the full battery car. Remove the red cable from the low battery’s positive terminal. Lastly, remove the red cable from the full battery.

Jumping a Car Battery

If you find yourself in the unfortunate position of returning to a car with a dead battery, you may be able to get your car back on the road with a jump start. The process of jumping a car battery is not hard, but it is potentially dangerous so exercise caution. Always wear eye protection and never attempt to jump start old, depleted, damaged, or frozen car batteries.

If your car is equipped with a maintenance free battery, which typically means the caps are sealed, there is not a whole lot of car battery maintenance you will have to do. You should still pop the hood and visually inspect the battery periodically.

Make sure the cables are connected securely and tighten as needed. If you spot a lot of corrosion around the terminals, disconnect the clamps and clean all the connections with a battery cleaning tool or wire brush. A paste of baking soda and water will help remove stubborn deposits. If you do disconnect your battery, you may need to enter a password or security code for your onboard navigations system or radio to function. If your battery has caps that are removable, check the water level and add distilled water when necessary. If you notice cracks or bulges in the battery case, you'll want to get the battery replaced.

Car Battery Maintenance and Replacement

Unfortunately, even with your best efforts, car battery maintenance can only help so much. Leaving your lights on with the engine off can drain your battery. You probably won't need a new battery if you accidentally kill the battery. All you likely need is a jump start or a battery charger. All car batteries eventually lose the ability to hold a charge, however, and need to be replaced.

Dead Car Battery - Car batteries don't last forever. There are some signs you should be able to recognize that indicate your battery may need to be replaced soon. You also have options other than replacement particularly if your battery is dead because of something you did like leaving the radio on all night. In this article, we look at why car batteries die, how you can tell it might be time for a new battery, and alternatives to replacement such as jump starting or using a battery charger.

How to Choose a New Car Battery - Choosing a car battery can be a bit confusing. You will see terms like cold cranking amps, reserve capacity, group size and others you need to understand in order to buy the right battery for your vehicle. Car battery prices and vary widely and some warranties are better than others. We show you what to consider, what to look for, and what to look out for when buying a new car battery.

How to Replace a Car Battery - The best time to change a car battery is before it dies, but sometimes you just don't have that luxury. While some auto parts retailers do install your new battery for you, not all of them do. Changing a car battery yourself is not terribly challenging and you probably already have all the tools you need to do it yourself. Here are step by step instuctions for and detailed safety precautions for replacing a battery yourself.

Charging System and Car Battery Maintenance

In addition to performing routine car battery maintenance tasks like visually inspecting the battery for cracks, checking that the connections are secure, and keeping the terminals clean, you should also get your charging system checked by a mechanic once every year. Have the battery, voltage regulator, alternator, cables, and belts inspected. Especially if your battery light comes on or you have trouble getting your car started.

• You Left Your Lights or Radio On - Some cars turn off your headlights automatically once the engine is off. Others make an irritating sound when you try to exit the car with your lights left on. Unfortunately, not all cars are equipped with such battery saving features. If you leave your headlights on overnight or for an extended period of time with the engine off, you run the risk of coming back and finding a dead car battery.  Forgetting to turn your radio or even your interior light off can kill your battery as well. The reserve capacity on most batteries is not enough to where you can leave your headlights or radio on with the engine off for more than a couple of hours and still have enough juice left to start your car.
• Charging System Issues - Your vehicle’s charging system creates electrical energy and maintains the charge in your battery. Its main components are the alternator and the voltage regulator.  A faulty alternator can prevent your battery from being recharged and a voltage regulator that is not functioning properly can result in your battery getting overcharged or damaged.
• The Age of Your battery - Car batteries break down over time. The typical life expectancy of a car battery is between 4 and 5 years. The date of manufacture can be found on every car battery either stamped on it or on an attached label.  For example, you may see a sticker with b9 on it which means the battery was made in February of 2009. The letter indicates the month (A for January, b for February, etc.) and the number is for the year.
• Extreme Cold - Harsh winter temperatures can lead to the untimely demise of your car battery. It takes more power to get your engine started when the weather outside is below the freezing point. If you live in an area where winter weather can be severe, be sure you buy a battery with a high cold cranking amp rating.
• Extreme Heat - When you think dead battery, you might imagine freezing cold temperatures and a foot or two of snow on the ground. What you may not know is that hot weather and extremely high temperatures are just as bad for your car battery if not worse.  When subjected to high heat, the water in your car battery can evaporate and cause the battery to fail.

If you are in need of a new car battery, but you are not sure if you can install it yourself, rest assured that learning how to change a car battery is not terribly difficult. Hopefully, you are replacing your battery before it dies, but if you have a car with a dead battery that can’t be recharged in your driveway, you will not be able to drive to get a replacement and you might not want to pay to have your car towed somewhere to get a new one installed. So knowing how to change a battery yourself can make your life easier. You might also be able to save a few bucks by changing the battery yourself. While most service centers and auto parts stores do offer installation when you buy a new battery, if you are on a budget, they might not have the lowest prices.

Changing a car battery is one of the easier auto repair jobs you can do on your own as long as you buy the right battery, can lift a full battery, and make it a point to be careful. That said, there are a few reasons not to install a new car battery yourself.

Though changing a car battery is not overly complicated, there are some scenarios where doing it yourself would result in little or no benefit. For example, if your car is still under warranty and your battery is covered, take your car to a dealership and have the battery changed there. If your car has a heat shield over the battery that looks like it might be a nightmare to remove and reattach, have the new battery installed for you. Car batteries can also be difficult for some people to lift. Most standard batteries tend to weigh somewhere between 40 and 60 pounds when full. Even though most have a handle or strap to make lifting the battery a little easier, if you are unable to lift it without difficulty, have the installation done for you.

Once you have decided that you are going to change the battery yourself, you need to gather up the tools for the job. You probably already have most of what you need, but while you are out buying your new battery, pick up a battery brush and a can of battery protector. The battery brush is used to get rid of corrosion around the clamps and terminals as well as scuffing the terminals on the new battery so the clamps connect better. You can use a thin wire brush instead if you already have one. Battery protector is an anti-corrosion spray you can apply to your new battery terminals to prevent deposits and poor cable connectivity.

Mix 3 parts baking soda to 1 part water to create a paste. You will use it with your brush to clean the battery terminals on the old battery which will make it easier to remove the nuts and bolts. If the shelf the battery rests on is covered in sulfate deposits, you can use the baking soda and water mixture to clean it as well.

Grab an adjustable wrench. A pair of pliers, vise grips, or another wrench is needed for holding the bolt heads in place while you remove the nuts. A hammer may be useful as well. A light tap with a hammer can help loosen caked on deposits or stubborn clamps. Protective eyewear and work gloves are a must. Car batteries are filled with sulfuric acid, which is highly corrosive, so do not skip eye protection or gloves. Remove any rings, watches, bracelets or other jewelry before you begin.

To replace a car battery:

• Park your car on level ground, apply the parking brake, and shut the engine off. You should remove the keys from the ignition as well to ensure that the vehicle’s electrical system is completely off.
• Pop the hood and locate the battery. Apply your baking soda paste and clean the terminals with your battery brush.  Tough deposits can be loosened with a light tap from the hammer. Getting rid of the sulfate deposits will make it much easier to remove the nuts and bolts that secure the clamps to the terminals.
• Next, you will remove the cables from the battery terminals. The red cable is positive while the black is negative. Most vehicles have a negative ground, but check your owner’s manual to be sure. Assuming it does, turn the nut on the clamp that secures the cable to the negative terminal counterclockwise with one wrench while holding the bolt steady with another wrench or pliers. Once sufficiently loosened, place your tools on the ground to prevent an electrical charge and carefully remove the cable. Once the first cable has been removed and placed out of the way, repeat the process with the second. Removing the cables from the battery terminals is the most dangerous part of replacing a car battery so be cautious.
• Your battery is seated on a tray and typically held in place by a plate or clamps. Remove whatever is securing the battery in place.
• Lift the old battery straight up and out. The battery may have a handle you can use or you may have to grip it by its sides. Place it on the ground out of your way.
• If the battery shelf is rusty or has deposits on it, you can clean it with the baking soda paste and your brush. Dry the tray completely with a rag before replacing your battery. Brush any lingering deposits off of your cable clamps as well. Spray the clamps with your battery protector to prevent deposits from forming going forward.  
• Put the new battery onto the tray facing the same way as the old one. Secure the battery by reattaching the plates or whatever was holding the battery in place. Test to make sure the battery is in tight.
• If your battery came with plastic end caps covering the terminals, remove them. Brush the terminals lightly with your battery brush to score the terminals, which will allow the cable clamps to grip better. Spray the terminals with your anti-corrosion spray.
• Replace the cables in reverse order, meaning replace the positive cable first if your car has a negative ground. Make sure the clamps are tight.
• Try the ignition. Your car should start right up without issue.

Car batteries are filled with acid and lead making them both dangerous and hazardous to the environment. It is illegal in most jurisdictions to dispose of a car battery with your household trash and states have mandatory recycling laws for lead-acid batteries. Many retailers will take your old battery when you buy a new one. You can also take the battery to a recycling center that accepts car batteries.

Even though you know how to change a car battery, hopefully you won’t have to do it too often. If you buy a quality, name brand battery from a reputable retailer, you should get years of hassle free use out of it. All car batteries eventually die, however. So if you do find yourself having to replace a car battery yourself, you can do it. All it takes is a few simple tools, some common sense safety precautions, and a little bit of your time.

The best time for buying a new car battery is before you find yourself stranded somewhere unable to get where you need to go because you have a dead battery. For peace of mind, reliability, and for your own safety, do not make the mistake of thinking that you do not need to buy a new battery until after your current one is dead and cannot be recharged. You should be the one that decides when to replace the car battery rather than waiting until you have no other choice.

How to Buy a Car Battery

Before you run out and buy a new car battery, there are a few things you need to know. First, you need to be able to recognize the signs that indicate that you might need a new car battery. You also need to know what type of battery to buy, as all car batteries are definitely not created equal. If you don't want to end up paying too much, you should also consider other factors such as the type of climate in which you live and how long you plan on owning your car.

Do I Need a New Car Battery?

Since you know better than to wait until it's too late to get a new battery, how do you know if you need a new car battery or when to buy one? Most car batteries will have a sticker on them that documents when the battery was made and how long it can be expected to last. Pop open the hood and take a look, but use that information as just a guideline. Regardless of when you bought the battery or how long it is supposed to last, there are other indications that your battery may need to be replaced that you should not ignore.

Having a difficult time starting your car is one common indication that you may need a new battery. If it often takes more than one attempt to get your car started, it may be time to replace the battery. It is not possible to predict when your battery will die based on this sign, so you need to take notice if it happens more than once. You can take your car in for service and have a technician run a load test to see how well your battery is holding a charge. A battery charger may temporarily resolve this issue, but it is not a permanent fix.

There is also a battery warning light on your dashboard. If the warning light is lit up, it could mean that the battery does not have enough cold cranking amps to turn over the engine or it can mean that there is a problem with your alternator. The battery warning light is usually not the first sign that your battery needs replacing, but it might well be the last so make sure you don't just ignore it.

How to Choose a Car Battery

Before you can replace a dying or dead battery, you have to buy the right one. That means you have to know what type of battery your car needs. You can find the specifications in your owner's manual as well as on the sticker affixed to the driver's side doorjamb.

The two things you want to pay close attention to when it comes to battery specs are the cold cranking amps and the group size. When buying a car battery, you also want to check the date code on any battery you are thinking about purchasing as you don't want one that has been sitting around too long. Other considerations include the battery's reserve capacity and the warranty.

Cold Cranking Amps - In colder temperatures, engine oil thickens, gasoline is harder to burn, and your engine has to work harder to start up. Cold cranking amps (CCA) are a measurement of the amps needed to turn over the engine at 0 degrees Fahrenheit. If you live in an area where winters are harsh, you will want to buy a car battery with a higher CCA number. The CA (cranking amps) number will also be listed on the battery. This number reflects the number of amps required to turn over the engine at 32 degrees Fahrenheit and will be much higher. Do not confuse the two. So why not buy the battery with the highest CCA number you can find? That may sound like a good idea, but buying more battery than you need is really a waste of money.

Group Size - The group size reflects the overall size of the battery as well as the type and placement of the terminals. Choose the group size recommended by your car manufacturer in your owner's manual. Most battery retailers will have a reference guide available or will be able to lookup the group size for your make and model if necessary.

Age - Car batteries have a date code either stamped right on the case or on an attached tag which indicates when the battery was made. The code will usually be made up of a letter representing the month and a number to indicate the year of manufacture. The letter A indicates January, B is for February, C means March, and so on. The number in the code is the last digit of the year. So the date code J1 would mean the battery was manufactured in October of 2011. Do not buy a battery that is more than six months old. Batteries that sit unused for long periods of time begin to corrode.

Reserve Capacity - The RC indicates the length of time in minutes the battery can sustain your car's electrical needs on its own if your alternator were to fail. RC is an indication of quality, but it's not always disclosed on the sticker so you might have to ask or check the product website or literature yourself. If your alternator stops working, a battery with a high reserve capacity might get you to a service station rather than being stuck on the side of the road waiting for a tow truck.

Warranties - The typical car battery warranty has two components to it. There is usually both a total warranty period and a free replacement period. If your battery dies during the free replacement period, you can get a new one at no cost. If your battery dies after the free replacement period but before the total warranty coverage has elapsed, you get a prorated credit toward the purchase of a new battery. Car battery warranties vary widely and can range from 90 days to 36 months. Unless you plan on getting rid of your vehicle relatively soon, if your buying decision comes down to two batteries with similar stats, you might want to go with the battery with the warranty that offers the longer replacement period.

New Car Battery Cost

So how much does a new car battery cost? The cost of a new car battery usually depends on their life expectancy. You might opt for a cheap car battery, one that does not have one of the longer life expectancies or a long free replacement period, if you know you don't plan to own your vehicle much longer. You can also expect to pay more for a battery with a higher CCA number. Your final cost also depends on whether you intend to install the battery yourself or if installation and disposal of your current battery are included in the price. Where you buy the battery makes a difference as well.

If you are willing to shop around, you may be able to find a cheap car battery in the $65 to $75 range, but you can reasonably expect to pay over $100. There are a number of car batteries offering solid reliability in the $100 to $150 price range. If you are willing to pay top dollar for maximum performance, high end car batteries with long replacement periods and high CCA ratings costing $200 - $300 are also available.

Where to Buy a Car Battery

If your vehicle is still under warranty and your warranty covers the battery, take your car to the dealership. Service centers like NTB, Sears and Firestone usually include installation, have decent prices, and keep a good amount of stock on hand. You might be able to find lower prices at large discount retailers like Wal-Mart or Target, but you are probably looking at having to install the new battery and dispose of your old battery yourself. You could also buy a car battery online. Advance Auto Parts lets you find and choose a battery on their website then pick it up in store if you live near one of their locations.

How to Buy a Car Battery

Buying a car battery is straightforward once you know what you are looking for. You can find the information you need including group size and recommended CCA rating in your owner's manual. Don't buy a battery with a lower CCA number than your car maker recommends. Buying a car battery with a CCA rating 200 amps or more higher than the recommendation is a waste of your money. Never buy a car battery that is more than 6 months old. Consider the reserve capacity and make sure you understand the terms of the warranty. Buy a name brand battery from a reputable dealership, service center, auto parts store, or other retailer.

Premium gas, which usually means gas with a higher octane rating is not necessarily better and always filling up with regular gas does not mean you are sacrificing performance or fuel efficiency. If you want to know whether premium gas is worth it or not, you can easily answer the premium gas vs regular question yourself by consulting your owner's manual. Your manual will tell you if you should buy premium gas or regular gas.

When you pull up to a gas pump or see a sign for a gas station advertising its prices, it is impossible not to notice that there are usually three different gasoline grades for sale, each at a different cost per gallon. Typically you will see these different gasoline grades called Regular, Plus, and Premium or Super. These are not just clever names used for marketing purposes. While they might sound like more appropriate names for sandwich or pizza sizes rather than fuel types, there are a couple of distinctions among them that result in the different prices per gallon you see.

So what is the difference between the various gasoline grades besides cost per gallon? The most obvious difference is the octane rating. The octane rating is a number which represents the level of octane in the gasoline you are buying. For example, at your local gas station you might see the number 93 on a sticker near the nozzle that dispenses Premium while the Regular product might display an octane rating of 87.

The octane rating also reflects the relative amount of protection offered against engine knock. Engine knock results when the unburned air and fuel mixture does not burn cleanly and detonates instead. This causes a distinct, metallic pinging sound that comes from underneath your hood. You may have heard it before or you might be all too familiar with.

One possible cause of engine knock is filling up with gas that has a lower octane rating than your car manufacturer recommends. While premium gas can sometimes be a solution for engine knock, that does not necessarily mean that the premium gas vs regular gas decision is settled. Most modern engines have sensors that detect knocking and adjust the timing of the spark on the fly to eliminate engine knocking. Engine knocking can also mean defective knock sensors, improper engine timing, or faulty oxygen sensors. So premium fuel might not solve your problem if you are hearing engine knock, but it can be worth a try.

One additional difference between premium and regular gas is the amount of detergent used as an additive. In 1995, the US Environmental Protection Agency established a standard for detergent in gasoline. So all grades of gasoline now contain some amount of detergent.

These detergents can help to keep your engine clean and more fuel efficient by reducing carbon deposits. Detergents can reduce emissions to help protect the environment as well. Premium gas often contains significantly higher levels of detergent additives than Regular. Some companies even advertise that their high octane gas contains more detergent than the EPA requires which is certainly true. For example, according to one recent study, the Regular offering from Shell with an octane rating of 87 contained 16.2 milligrams of detergent per 100 milliliters while their Premium gasoline contained 31 milligrams.

Sounds almost good enough to pay an extra 20 cents per gallon, but does the higher concentration of detergent in premium gasoline result in a significant performance improvement or less buildup? The US Federal Trade Commission does not think so. In one of the consumer notices you can find on the FTC website here, in response to the question of whether higher octane gasoline will clean your engine better or not, the FTC in part that as a rule high octane gasoline does not perform better than regular octane in preventing deposits, removing deposits, or in cleaning the engine.

If you are not sure which gasoline grade is best for your car or if you have been buying one or the other without giving it much thought, you should check your car owner’s manual. The owner’s manual will have a recommended octane level. The simple answer is that if your manual recommends Premium, use Premium. If Regular is recommended, use Regular.

Most modern cars are designed to run on Regular gasoline, but depending on the make and model of your vehicle, your car maker may recommend gas with a higher octane level than you will usually find in Regular. Luxury cars and high performance sports cars for example may recommend filling your tank with nothing but Premium gas.

If your manual does recommend Regular, in certain specific circumstances you still may want to fill up with Premium instead. Understand that the suggestion here is not that you ignore your manual, but if your engine is knocking or pinging despite your using gasoline with the car maker’s suggested octane level then you might want to try switching up to the next highest grade to eliminate the engine knock. If the knocking persists after you make the change, an engine tune up or other repair may be required. Once you have your engine serviced, you can switch back to Regular or mid-grade, whichever is the lowest grade that your engine will run on without knocking or pinging.

If your car is newer or has been well maintained and you are not experiencing any performance problems or engine knock, there is nothing wrong with sticking to Regular if that is what your owner’s manual recommends. Premium should not be taken to mean better. It is highly likely you will receive any benefit or value from spending extra on Premium when your car manufacturer recommends Regular.

If you have never pumped your own gas before, learning how to pump gas yourself can save you time, money, and help you avoid getting stuck when no one is around to help or pump gas for you. With full service stations getting harder to find and the cost of a full tank of gas high enough without paying more for full serve, learning to pump your own gas and following these tips on pumping gas will be well worth your while.

Maybe you don’t mind paying extra for the convenience of having someone else pump your gas. Maybe you can’t stand the smell of gasoline fumes, you are afraid to do it yourself, you have simply never had to do it before, or you live in Oregon or New Jersey where all gas stations are full service. Whatever the reason, learning how to pump your own is not terribly difficult and it will pay off in more ways than one on every visit to the filling station.

Pumping your own gas is not terribly difficult, but first there are some safety precautions you should take. The fuel that our vehicles run on, whether diesel or gasoline, can be extremely dangerous if handled improperly. Many car owners and drivers, even those that have been pumping their own gas for years, are not aware that there are certain safety procedures that should be followed every time you fill up your tank. Gas stations do have emergency shutoff buttons as well as fire extinguishers on site for both customers and attendants, but if you are careful hopefully you will never have to use either. Make sure you observe the following safety procedures when you are refueling your vehicle:

• A gas station is just about the last place you should be smoking , so put out your cigarette before you get out of your car to refuel. Do not smoke, light a match, or use a lighter anywhere near a gas pump.
• Always turn off your engine before you refuel. A running engine can potentially start a fire and be even more dangerous if a fire does break out. Besides, it’s actually illegal to pump gas with the engine running in many places.
• Do not get back in your vehicle while it is being refueled. Returning to your car can generate static electricity which can be enough to ignite gasoline vapors. It may not happen often, but the threat of static electricity causing a fire at the gas pump is very real. The Petroleum Equipment Institute has studied refueling fires and found almost 200 cases where static electricity appears to have caused a gas station fire. You can check out the report here.
• Do not leave your vehicle unattended while refueling. That means no trips to the bathroom or inside the convenience store while gas is being pumped. The pump may fail to shut off properly when your tank is full or the nozzle could fall out onto the ground spilling gasoline everywhere.
• Do not overfill or try to top off your tank. The gas pump shuts off automatically when your tank is full.
• If a fire does occur while you are refueling, do not remove the pump nozzle from the fill pipe. Doing so could spill gas and cause the fire to spread. Get away from the car at once and notify the gas station attendant. If you can get to the emergency shutoff button, push it to shut down the pump. The attendant also has a shutoff button inside so the safest thing to do is run.

Here are step by step instructions for pumping your own gas:

• Pull into the gas station so that your fuel cap is on the same side as the gas pump. If you have an automatic transmission, put the car in park. Put the car in neutral if you drive a standard. Shut off the engine and put the parking brake on.
• Follow the instructions on the pump for choosing a payment method and grade of fuel. Typically, you will insert your credit card into the slot, follow the directions on the payment screen, and push a button to select the grade of gasoline you want. If you intend to pay in cash, you will most likely have to pay the attendant first.
• Open the fuel door and unscrew the fuel cap slowly to allow air to escape. There may be a button on your dashboard you need to push in order to release the fuel door and get to the cap. The gas cap may have a tether or the fuel door may have a holder for the fuel cap so it won’t get lost. If your gas cap is made to come completely off, make sure you put it somewhere where you won’t forget to replace it.
• Remove the nozzle from the pump and place it into your fuel tank. The nozzle may be equipped with a flexible rubber vapor recovery sleeve. If so, you will have to push the nozzle into the filler pipe as deep as it will go before gas will flow.
• Squeeze the trigger handle on the nozzle to start the flow of fuel from the pump to your vehicle. There is usually a little latch near the trigger that keeps the trigger depressed if you do not want to stand there squeezing it or breathing in fumes the entire time. Some gas stations remove the latches, though, to ensure that customers won’t leave their car unattended while refueling. If there is no latch do not wedge an object or your gas cap in its place.
• The fuel nozzle will shut off automatically when your tank is full. The trigger will click closed and the numbers on the pump display will stop moving. Gasoline expands so do not try to top off your tank or continue to fill until the meter lands on a nice round number. Overfilling can cause overflowing which can result in fire and environmental hazards in addition to being a waste of money.
• Remove the nozzle from your fuel tank and replace it back onto the pump.
• If you are paying by credit card, press Yes to confirm the transaction then wait for your receipt to print.
• Replace your gas cap, making sure that it is tightly fastened. You should hear a click to indicate that it is on securely. Close the fuel door.

Most drivers are going to have to pump their own gas at some point. If you have never done it before or have avoided it up to now, learning how to pump gas is nothing to be afraid of. It can seem intimidating if you have never done it before, but most gas pumps have complete instructions printed on them in case you need them. Be careful around the pump and take care not to spill any gas or forget to replace your fuel cap.

• Open the hood of your car.
• Locate the windshield washer fluid reservoir. The cap may have the windshield washer symbol you are probably familiar with on it, but it may not. If your fluid level is low but not empty, you may be able to see the blue fluid through the plastic reservoir.
• Remove the cap and place your funnel down into the reservoir.
• Pour the washer fluid into the funnel being careful not to overfill.
• Remove the funnel and replace the cap.

• Pop open the hood of your car.
• Find the oil dipstick and pull it out.
• Wipe down the end of the dipstick with a rag to remove all of the oil from it.
• Replace the oil dipstick, pushing it all the way back in.
• Pull out the dipstick again.
• Check to see where the oil level is on the dipstick.

• Open the hood of your car.
• Remove the cap from the oil fill hole and put it somewhere it can’t roll away or get lost.
• Place the funnel into the oil filler.
• Remove the cap from the quart of oil then remove the seal or poke a hole in it.
• Pour the oil into the funnel.